Tag Archives: San Angel

Paseando por la ciudad

A visit to Mexico City involves packing too many activities into too few days (but isn’t that the way with all urban travel?).  Lee and I quickly realized that we could not do everything we wanted to do without reaching the brink of exhaustion (and what fun is that?).  So on days when we felt a bit peaked, we slowed down our tourista pace and took a stroll.  Lee and I are great walking buddies (ask her about us trying to find the Sanduny Baths in Moscow!) and one of the best ways to see Mexico City is on foot. You can experience el DF’s dual nature of the ancient and the cosmopolitan close up and at your own pace.  We were grateful to Alejandro, one of the wonderful hosts at The Red Tree House, for recommending several beautiful walks.

1 Day 2 San Angel 1
The art market at San Angel.

San Angel, a lovely colonial-era neighborhood, has a great open air art market.  It is also near the Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico which lends the area a college-town feel.  After strolling around the art market and having some of the best flautas we have ever eaten at Chucho el Roto we headed east down Avenida La Paz toward Coyoacan. (NOTE: It was NOT the waitresses’ pleasure to serve us or anyone else at Chucho but that made the experience that much more fun!)

1 Day 2 coyoacan 9
One of the best things about this walk from San Angel to Coyoacan was oohhing and aahhing at the fabulous doors.  We were sure the homes behind them were equally as fabulous.
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Our new address?  Avenida La Paz became Francisco Sosa which took us into the main square of Coyoacan.
2 Day 2 coyoacan walk 2
Lee and los coches. The only time we ever felt unsafe was when we were trying to the cross the street especially at busy intersections.  How can a people as lovely and civilized as DF denizens become such maniacs behind the wheel of car?  We always tried to cross with other people and wave at oncoming drivers to make sure they saw us.  As a pedestrian in DF, you DO NOT have the right of way!

In Coyoacan, a primary tourist destination is Casa Azul, the Frida Kahlo Museum.  This was where Frida Kahlo was born and where she died. For a time, she and Diego Rivera lived there together.  It is an interesting place to learn more about how Frida developed as an artist but also to appreciate the brand that is “Frida”.  Like Marilyn Monroe, Frida Kahlo is still one the world’s most iconic women.  We enjoyed our visit to Casa Azul but … we LOVED our visit to Museo Casa Leon Trotsky, just a few blocks away.

4 Day 3 Trosky's house 1
Leon Trotsky’s house.  The windows and doors were bricked in after a failed assination attempt on Trotsky’s life in March 1940.

Trotsky was a radical thinker and an organizational genious but lacked political skill. He was no match for Stalin who exiled Trotsky from the Soviet Union in 1929.  In 1937, Frida and Diego invited Trotsky and his wife, Natalia, to come live with them at Casa Azul. A few years and one affair with Frida later, Trotsky and Natalia moved into their home on Calle Viena.

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Trotsky’s study where he was murdered by the Spanish Stalinist, Ramon Mercader, in August 1940. Ramon stabbed Trotsky in the back with an ice pick.
6 Day 3 Trotsky's House Lee and Raul
Trotsky’s house was so special because of our superlative guide, Raul Zertuche. Raul was knowledgeable and charming.  He shared with us that he plans to start his own high-end travel company. Sounds right up our alley, Raul! When do we leave?
Day 3EM at the four seasons
The quintessential CCC photo: bubbles and a smile.

After touring San Angel and Coyoacan, we were a bit peckish. We headed to Paseo de la Reforma for lunch at the Four Seasons Hotel.  Yes, we know … a rather homogenized American experience but we needed a little Fancy Lady Lunch and the Four Seasons never dissapoints.  The hotel was also very close to our next stop, Museo Nacional de Antropologia.

Day 3 bag holder
The bag stands were ubiquitous and wonderful.  No putting your things on the floor. U.S. restaurants, get these please!
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Located in the gorgeous Bosque de Chapultepec, el Museo Nacional de Antropologica possesses the history and the mystery of Mexico’s pre-Hispanic past.  NOTE: Do not go on a Sunday! The museo is free to all Mexican citizens and the lines are muy, muy largas!
10 Day 4 EcoBici
After a lovely day in el Bosque we ambled back to The Red Tree House and even had a little energy to explore the colonia Roma. Ecobici is el DF’s city bike share program. We were not brave enough to try it.
11 Day 4 donald trump's sons
Oh The Donald! Who will we laugh at when you are gone?
Day 4 EM at Cabrera 7
All that strolling makes a girl hungry. Enjoying pozole verde at Cabrera 7.

Located on the peaceful Plaza Luis Cabrera in Roma Norte, Cabrera 7 is not to be missed: traditional Mexico food served in a contemporary and sophisticated way.  The perfect end to a relaxing day paseando por la ciudad.

Indeed, strolling through Mexico City is perfect on any day!

(Please feel free to contact me for more information about visiting Mexico City. Lee and I can’t recommend it highly enough and we can’t wait to go back!)